Hi from Puerto Escondido!
I just spent ten days in Mermejita for a very special project: completing my home in this idyllic coastal village. Building Monte Lalala, a sustainable and self-sufficient sanctuary surrounded by nature, has been a dream years in the making. As I settled into this space, memories of my two decades of travel along the Coast of Oaxaca came flooding back. This stretch of the Pacific Ocean has been my refuge, my inspiration, my work with heirloom cottons and now, my second home. Whether you're visiting for the first time or returning for another adventure, let me share some personal tips to make your journey even more memorable.
Finding Your Way: Huatulco or Puerto Escondido?
When planning your trip, you’ll likely choose between flying into Huatulco or Puerto Escondido. For me, Puerto Escondido is the winner. It’s not just about the convenience—the road to Mazunte from Puerto Escondido is blissfully straight compared to the winding, dizzying routes from Huatulco—but also about the sense of homecoming. Over the last 20 years, Puerto Escondido has become my gateway to the coast, a place where friends and routines await. (I always stop at the local marketplace “Mercado Benito Juarez”)
Here’s a pro tip: If you’re flying from Mexico City to the Coast, grab a seat on the left side of the plane for a breathtaking view of the active volcano Popocatépetl. On the return journey, the right side of the plane offers equally stunning vistas.
Timing Your Visit
The Coast of Oaxaca is a year-round destination, but my favorite time to visit is between late October and mid-April. There’s something magical about this season—the lush landscapes that follow the rainy months (Oct-Dec), the majestic whales migrating along the coast (Nov-Apr), or Day of the Dead (Nov 1st). Early November to mid-December is an especially delightful period, with fewer tourists and lower hotel rates. And let’s not forget oyster season! Local fishermen bring in their fresh catch and shuck oysters right on the beach. It’s a simple pleasure that captures the spirit of life here.
Where to Stay: Towns and Tranquility
The Coast of Oaxaca offers something for every kind of traveler. If you’re drawn to the buzz of a small town with vibrant markets, numerous restaurants, and a variety of beaches, Puerto Escondido is a fantastic choice. Its energy and accessibility make it a favorite for many, though it can be busy and touristy at times.
For a more serene escape, consider Mermejita, a peaceful village nestled above Mazunte. This is where I’ve built my sustainable home, Monte Lalala, surrounded by nature and tranquility. Here, you can immerse yourself in the rhythms of coastal life, while charming fishing villages with delicious eateries are just a short distance away.
My advice? Split your time between these two destinations to experience the best of both worlds.
Traveling with Kids
If you’re traveling with little ones, rest assured that the Coast of Oaxaca is a playground for the senses. My kids have been visiting since they were six months old, and my son even took his first steps on the beach in Puerto Escondido just a couple of years ago. They’ve marveled at iguanas basking in the sun, watched dolphins dance in the waves, and spotted whales on the horizon. The simple joys of grilled fish, eaten with sandy toes and salty breezes, make every meal an adventure. The slower pace of life here is a gift for families, offering time to connect with nature and each other.
Do not miss: One unforgettable experience I highly recommend is releasing tiny turtles into the ocean. Many local foundations organize this magical activity, allowing you to name your turtle, send it off with good intentions, and watch it make its first journey into the waves. Leonie (6) still talks about this experience, and it’s a beautiful way to teach kids about conservation. Be sure to choose a mission-oriented organization for this, as the small fee you pay goes directly to important conservation efforts.
After 20 years of uncovering the secrets of the Coast of Oaxaca, it feels surreal to finally call this place home. Each visit renews my awe for its breathtaking sunsets, the warmth of its people, and the endless inspiration it provides. Whether you’re coming for a short stay or dreaming of your own coastal sanctuary, I hope these tips help you savor every moment.
I’m currently working on a comprehensive guide to this incredible region. Subscribe to this newsletter for free, and you won’t miss it. For now, I’m heading back to my family after 10 days in Mermejita setting up Monte Lalala. I can’t wait to share more about it soon.